Melbourne couple, Rachel and Paddy, enjoyed a truly epic five-week African adventure, visiting South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Kenya and Tanzania
“Africa had been on our bucket list for 15 years, but in the end it all happened really quickly,” says Rachel.
“Paddy was scheduled to have a kidney transplant, and once she’d had the op, she wouldn’t be able to have the yellow fever vaccination required for Africa. As soon as we realised that we said, ‘let’s make it happen’. So we got the okay for Paddy to travel before her operation, and arranged time off work.”
Paddy continues: “Once we found Encompass Africa, it all fell into place. We’re used to planning our own trips, but we knew Africa would be more complex, and we needed experts. From the start it was clear that Encompass Africa understood Africa inside out, and nothing was too hard. The itinerary that Danica tailored especially for us suited our travel dreams and my health needs perfectly. Safari days can be full-on, so building in breaks throughout our trip worked really well.”
Four nights at the camp was a perfect introduction to safari life. Being in a private concession meant more flexibility, so they could stay out later on game drives – which is how they witnessed lions making a kill one evening. Their guide’s passion made every drive exciting, and within just a couple of days they’d not only seen the Big Five, but also the Ugly Five – thus fulfilling one of Rachel’s African dreams (“Warthogs are my favourite!”).
Then it was on to Botswana, for two nights at Mopiri Camp in the Okavango Delta (including a mokoro trip that almost didn’t happen thanks to unseasonably low water levels), before they travelled to Nokanyana Tented Camp on the far side of the Okavango Delta.
“We travelled there on a light plane that kind of doubled as a scenic flight, which was brilliant as we’d thought about booking a special flight or helicopter ride to get the amazing views – but we got them for free with our transfer!” says Rachel.
“The game drive from the airstrip to camp was hands-down one of the best of the trip,” says Paddy. “There was a big waterhole and just about animal was there: hippos, elephants, buffalo, giraffe, zebra and impala – it was like a scene from a movie. It was a three-hour drive, but it took us four as we kept stopping to look at the amazing wildlife. Later, we were also lucky enough to see African wild dogs and their puppies, coming back from a hunt.”
Next up: Chobe, where they spent one night at Chobe River Lodge. “We packed a lot into a single afternoon – a visit to the national park, a stroll through the local markets, and a sunset cruise on the river,” says Rachel. “We saw buffalo, elephants wading across the river, crocodiles, baboons and loads of birdlife. After the relative quiet of other safari stops, this was our first real encounter with crowds, but the experience still felt special and, in hindsight, we’d have happily stayed two nights to enjoy it at a slower pace.”
The next morning they headed to Zambia, for three nights at the Royal Livingstone Hotel in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park.
“We don’t usually stay in places like that, it was a bit fancy for us, but we’d seen it on Travel Guides, and really wanted to go there,” says Paddy. “We loved its colonial charm and riverside location, and the fact that we had direct access to Victoria Falls – we could stroll there in 10 minutes whenever we liked, without worrying about transfers or park tickets.”
They enjoyed a scenic helicopter flight over the Falls, and exploring the Zambezi River on not only a fishing trip, but also a sunset cruise, and a smaller, quieter breakfast tour which included dining on a little island. One unexpected highlight was meeting a photographer who’d once been commissioned to photograph Nelson Mandela; after a few cocktails and the most interesting chat, they ended up buying one of his prints – the perfect memento of an unforgettable stay.
One day they crossed into Zimbabwe for lunch at Dusty Road, a vibrant local restaurant where everything’s made from recycled materials like old bathtubs, and the menu showcases traditional dishes with native ingredients. “We organised transport from Victoria Falls ourselves, and while it was a little hectic, it was absolutely worth it,” says Rachel. The border crossing amazed us with its simplicity – you just walk across. It’s definitely not like Australia!”
After a night in Nairobi, the couple set off on a road safari through the Great Rift Valley to Lake Nakuru National Park, spending two nights at The Cliff, where 10 spacious suits perch on a dramatic 100m-high cliff, each one with a freestanding tub and private deck overlooking the lake and Rift Valley plains. “We stayed here because I really wanted to see flamingos,” says Rachel. “There weren’t a lot there at the time, but we did see a few. On our final morning, we were stopped in our tracks by a rhino blocking the road just metres from our vehicle – that was better than seeing a flamingo!”
“From there, we continued by road to the Maasai Mara, breaking the journey with a visit to a Maasai village en route to Governor’s Camp, where we stayed three nights. With up to three game drives daily, we had incredible sightings, including four or five prides of lions, a leopard, and we even got to see a cheetah in full flight, taking down an impala”.
“We tried to go into this holiday with no expectations… but it surpassed anything we could have imagined,” says Rachel. “While we’d felt a little anxious about travelling in certain places as an LGBTI couple, we experienced nothing but warmth and respect from the people we met. And every place we visited had something unique, and every moment felt special.”
The couple also appreciated how seamlessly everything came together. “I didn’t want to over-research beforehand – I just wanted to relax and let it all unfold. And it did, perfectly. The Encompass Africa team did such an incredible job. I don’t think we would havechanged a thing… except maybe add an extra day here and there,” Rachel laughs. “Now it’s time to save, sort the health stuff, and start planning the next adventure. The migration is calling!”
